Sunday, December 19, 2010

MINI GUIDE: BLOK BOULDER - Poudre Cyn, CO

300 yards up canyon from The Hatchery Boulder (click here to download NC3's online guide) is the Blok Boulder.  Park in gigantic pull out on left and walk across road. "Rediscovered" by Brian Camp a few months back, this road side boulder had been climbed on and forgotten.  From existing chalk and advice from Poudre pioneer Ben Scott, it appeared Blok One_V6/7 had been climbed starting a few moves in from the start undercling listed below.  Thanks to a small motivated crew the Blok Boulder has become a popular stop on the way up the canyon... Enjoy! (click image to enlarge)
A. and B. both sit start matched on left leaning undercling in the middle of the boulder (just above Remy's head)  C. sit starts on matched far right rounded jug.
A. Blok Two_V10** Crimps and Underclings with a technical finish to Jug Rail out right.  F.A. Jeff Silcox - Multiple top out variations have been done - the original is listed.
B. Blok One_V6/7** Power start to fun moves.  (sit) F.A. Brian Camp
(start 3 moves in_V4) F.A. Jay Shambo
C. Blok of Aragon_V11** Start on far right side of boulder and finish left with mantel. 17 moves of pure dirt-burglar brilliance... F.A. Paul Dusatko

Saturday, December 18, 2010

VIDEO: BLOK of ARAGON_V11 - First Ascent

On Thursday, I scored the FA of a fun road side line on The Blok boulder in Poudre Canyon. At 17 moves and finishing with the mantel on Jamie Emerson's Blok Negative_V10, I felt V11 was appropriate...  Go climb on it!

Blok of Aragon_V11 First Ascent from Paul Dusatko on Vimeo.

Monday, November 29, 2010

Saturday, November 27, 2010

VIDEO: Blok One_V6/7, Twilight Sit_V10, Gypsies Tramps & Thieves_V11


Gypsies_V11, Twilight Sit_V10, Blok One_V7 : Poudre Cyn from Paul Dusatko on Vimeo.

VIDEO: Arthur's Rock Guide and Triton_V12 F.A.

Update 1.  Ben Scott and Pat Goodman in association with The NC3 have released a free download guide to Arthur's Rock in Lory State Park.  Arthur's handful of classics including the new Triton V12, Vice_V10, Four Dollar Arete_V10, Ode To Failure Direct_V9, Godzilla_V8, ChildBirth_V8 (HB), Ode To Failure_V8, Mole People_V6, VooDoo Lady_V6, Main Street_V5, and Last Resort_V5 plus its close proximity to Fort Collins (30 minutes) make for a worthwhile bouldering destination.
The guide book is available here along with an updated Poudre download:
http://www.nococlimbing.org/climbing

Many thanks to Ben Scott for his work as a climber, developer, steward, and guide book author. His efforts are the foundation for a healthy Fort Collins climbing community!

Update 2.  Brian Camp has established the newest line at Arthur's with a low left link into the top of Last Resort calling it Triton, V12.  Originally dubbed The Undercling Project, BC put in 8 days of effort over the past two seasons to establish one of the hardest lines at Arthur's.
Footage shot by Arthur's main hater - Durno!
Check out his always entertaining blog ClimbHighCO: http://climbhighco.blogspot.com/

Jaime Emerson quickly repeated Triton during his first session on the rig and agreed consensus will solidify it's V12 difficulty.

Triton FA from Climb High CO on Vimeo.

Friday, November 12, 2010

VIDEO: Le Blok Boulder all up in that Poudre.

These 2 new rigs come courtesy of Brian Camp doin' work and cleaning a roadside blok 200 yards past The Hatchery boulder up Poudre Canyon.  Blok One_V7 and Blok Two_V10...


Le Blok from HIGHFRICTIONBOULDERING on Vimeo.

Thursday, October 21, 2010

VIDEO: 3 RIGS in The POUD... One F.A.

After scoping a beautiful green lichen wall in the talus field above Gandalf and falling past the crux on my flash attempt of Nic Oklobzija / Brian Camp's new Shapes and Sizes (Low Right ) V9 over the weekend, I sprinted up the Poudre for a quick after work session yesterday and fired an old Ben Scott line that hadn't seen traffic in awhile and dubbed it (with Ben's permission) Rapist Wit, V3 - a 20 foot high boulder with a bit of a scary landing.  I also nabbed a quick ascent (1st try) on Shapes and Sizes (Low Right).  Thanks to the efforts of Beau Kahler and his Arkansas crew the landing below Rapist Wit is much less intimidating and 4 or 5 pads feels more than safe... 
We also scored footage of Collin Horvat firing another 2004 Ben Scott line we dubbed (with Ben's permission) The Soft Parade, V9 more picturesque and roadside than classic but good times nonetheless.  The Soft Parade is located on the right 400 yards before the Gandalf area parking ON PRIVATE PROPERTY - CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Rapist Wit is located just above BC's Tractor Beam, V7 and a few boulders left of Shapes and Sizes.
"Tell her I'm rich and I have a Rapist Wit, I'll just hang here and put out the vibe..."
-Lloyd
Cleaning the rig...
Sending the rig.

Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Unshackled_V10

Hands Down one of the best pure roof lines I've climbed in Colorado....
PHOTOS by Beaudering - Click on Images to Enlarge
VIDEO of the full Sit Start (V11) is on the way...

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

New Wave Wall at Miramont designed and built by Wave WarpTM

This is what I've been doing for the past 3 months... PSYCHED!
80 Feet Long, 12 Feet High - 30+ Foot Boulder Problems - 20 degree slab 'waves' into 60 degree prow with two 45s on each side...

Monday, May 17, 2010

VIDEO: DUMP TRUCK, V10_Poudre Canyon, CO

In early winter I established a link-up that Brian Camp had been scoping.  With no real efforts by BC during the FA attempts I ended up sending this "necessary contrivance" called Dump Truck on the immaculate Against Humanity boulder.  DT starts on Against Humanity Right, V8 and finishes up Crime, V9.
Here, Miramont's newest setter, Kevin Boehm scores the fourth ascent:

Dump Truck, V10_Poudre Canyon, CO from Paul Dusatko on Vimeo.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

POUDRE MINI GUIDE: King Fin Area & Critical Mass

In order to assist the efforts of Ben Scott and The NC3 to provide free online bouldering guides, I'll be adding supplemental information on Fire The Rig such as the Mini Guide below. (As a note, the grades, FA claims, and star ratings are based on consensus of the local crew currently wrestling the pebbles)
Emily Dudley fires King Fin,V4
KING FIN AREA:
Approximately 40 miles up the Poudre Canyon from the World Famous "Ted's Place" gas station/hooker hangout is the Big Bend Campground. (on the left if driving up canyon)
Directly across from the Big Bend Campground is the King Fin Area. A left turn sends you to Big Bend Campground, a right turn, at the seasonal mail box post, takes you to King Fin and Critical Mass. Drive on the dirt road staying to the left at any turn. The road dead ends at a cul-de-sac with both the Critical Mass and King Fin Boulders visible from the car.
View from Parking Area
King Fin Boulder

A. Fin King, V3: Start on large sloping ledge and head up the arete on edges and slopers. 
FA Jay Shambo / Herm Feissner
B. Scrimps, V3: Bust three moves to the arete off a crimpy stand start. FA Jay Shambo / Herm Feissner
C. Face Down Ass Up, V8*: Start sitting in the Hanta Virus cave and traverse right into the far left side of King Fin then head left onto the main head wall via a sharp RH crimp and LH pinch. Dyno to the sloping but good lip hold. Mantel out.  FA Paul Dusatko
D. Gastoner, V7*: Same start as "C" then bust straight up where "C" heads back left. Top out just left of King Fin.  FA Aaron Edwards
E. Ridin' Spinnaz, V5*: Same Start as "C" and finish up King Fin.  FA Beau Kahler
F. Hank's Rig, V6*: Start as "G" finish up "C" FA Hank Jones circa 1999
G. King Fin, V4***: Climb the right arete up quality stone and unique holds. Classic. FA Jay Shambo
Critical Mass Boulder
Critical Mass, V12**: Sit start at the far end of the cave. Bust out technical moves via crimps, slopes, toe hooks, and mad body tension. RMNPesque climbing.  FA Andre DiFelice / Brian Camp
(Note: Jon Glassberg climbed a left exit with beta he called "beta for giants" - still waiting grade consensus)

Thursday, April 29, 2010

VIDEO: FACE DOWN ASS UP, V8_Poudre Canyon, CO

Collin "That's not my Sweater Vest" Horvat and I climbing FACE DOWN ASS UP, V8 on the classic roadside King Fin boulder (not to be confused with the infamous King Pin) 

FACE DOWN ASS UP_V8, Poudre Canyon, CO from Paul Dusatko on Vimeo.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Sunday, February 14, 2010

DWoods_V16

In case you haven't heard, La Sportiva athlete, Daniel Woods is crushing. Everything.  Including his long standing project in Boulder Canyon.  Dubbing it "The Game" V16! 
After 17 days of effort spread over 2 years, Daniel confirmed that this line is a step above all other rigs.
Photo courtesy of Jamie Emerson@www.b3bouldering.com

Daniel has been quite busy lately, after returning to Colorado from a lengthy stint in Europe and Northern Cali, he hooked up the 3rd ascent of Terremer V15, established The Game V16, and just won The ABS Bouldering Nationals....
It's a DWoods take over fo sho!

For more info on all of Daniel's action checkout:

Northern Colorado is stacking up the test-pieces. We are sure to see an insurgency of Euros and American crankers alike making their may to NoCo to get it in on the hot XXX bouldering action.

Friday, February 5, 2010

FIRST ASCENT: The Godzilla Indirect Sit Start, V12 _ Blake Rutherford

NEWS FLASH!  Mega FoCo Local, Blake Rutherford, has established what is arguably the hardest line in the Fort Collins area with his first ascent of "The Godzilla Indirect Sit Start" @ Arthur's Rock.  Blake spent approximately 20 days on the line that starts between the classics 4 Dollar Arete, V10 and Godzilla, V8 traversing up and right eventually finishing on the top jugs of Godzilla.  With crimps, pinches, non-existent looking holds, and one massive shoulder move this RIG is stacked from beginning to end.  In my opinion Godzilla Indirect features some of the best pure power movement at Arthur's... Thanks for the new line Blake!
The Godzilla Indirect Sit Start, V12
Climber:  Blake Rutherford
Photos:  Paul Dusatko
(Click on Images to Enlarge)
 
Fin