Tuesday, December 18, 2012


My Homie and Miramont setter, Zach Lerner takes down Memory Is Parallax... Nice work dawg! Release the raw footage! too classic to hide.

Monday, December 10, 2012


Collin Horvat waded through the ashes of last summer's Poudre Canyon fire and scored the first ascent of this new gem... Poudre is sooo tapped out! This has to be last FA ever in the Poudre, ever.

Fire On The Mountain from chorvat on Vimeo.

Thursday, November 22, 2012


2 stellar Hueco classics, Animal Acts (the Slashface of V5) and the unique Homer Simpson 'top out' DOH! both on West Mtn.

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

VIDEO: J-Star's Viva Le Vie Trailer... Rad.

I've always to climb in the Verdon Gorge... 'Viva La Vie'will be touring the globe with Banff Mountain Film Fest. A Film by: Jonathan Siegrist, Andy Mann, Nina Caprez, and Keith Ladzinski.

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

VIDEO: Partial Amputee, Craig DeMartino Tops Out El Cap!

The always inspiring Craig DeMartino of the Gimp Monkeys crew along with Jarem Frye and Pete Davis fired the classic Zodiac_VI 5.7 A3 route on El Capitan over the past summer. Having climbed Zodiac myself, with all my appendages intact, I can tell you first hand the Gimp Monkey's ascent truly pushes the envelope of physical and mental "limits."

Gimp Monkeys from ARC'TERYX on Vimeo.

Footnote: Craig and his family are members at Miramont. His presence always pushes other climbers to try just a bit harder as he is usually cruising their projects... ;)

Monday, October 22, 2012

First Female Ascent of V14!

First Female Ascent of a confirmed V14... Sick! Another chapter in climbing history begins...

Thursday, July 19, 2012

Moon Board at Miramont! Notes on our first session.

We installed a Moon Board this week at Miramont! Of all the woodies and system walls I've trained on this is the most effective finger and contact strength trainer that I know of.
We built the wall to the exact specs of Ben Moon's original School Room training wall along with the OG Holds, Hold Set Ups and OG Problems.  Our first session was quite funny actually with our entire crew only completing one 7A (V6) and a few 6Cs (V5)... Aaron Hagar came close on a 7C (V9) but it looks to remain a project for now... Awesome!  Our first sesh was burly, humbling, inspiring, and productive.  I can't wait to see how this effects my road to rehab and the overall strength of our crew... My guess is the Moon Board will be instrumental in our development.
For more info on Moon Boards go to www.moonclimbing.com.  Ben and crew provide free info on exact construction specs, hold set-ups, problems, history, and training tips.  His site is a brilliant training resource!
Come down and visit our wall... right now we are training on hold set-up #1 of the original School Room holds (yellow holds).

Friday, July 6, 2012


Our friend and Miramont route setter, Ian Dory recently sent the infamous Wheel of Life_5.14d/15a in the Grampians Australia... Nice work Ian!

Ian Dory sending The Wheel Of Life, Hollow Mountain Cave, The Grampians from Exileded on Vimeo.

Tuesday, June 19, 2012


Emily Dudley and Paul Dusatko fire rigs in beautiful Red Cliff, CO just outside of Vail...
Minturn Mile_V6
Return Of The Jedi_V8 (My first post-op V8!)

Tuesday, May 1, 2012


2.5 months after emergency cardio-thoracic surgery I fired my first 2 rigs outside... with a feeding tube intact... Psyched!
Recognize the scars son!
Emily Dudley vs. Paul Dusatko
Pineapple Express_V4
Geiman In A Blender_V6

Tuesday, March 6, 2012


Prior to my recent full blown medical epic involving a ruptured Esophagus (10 days in the Hospital) and 3 weeks of bed rest (check my Facebook for a full run down) Emily Dudley and I spent our New Year vacation in Vegas.  Emily crushed rigs while I was on recon/vacation mode.
We hooked up with our friends Paul Robinson, Alex Kahn, Natasha Barnes, Max Z, and crew for a lil Biznass, drinks, gambling, and good times...
I Killed It in Roulette of all things, Em and I hit the day spa, and chilled at The Rio for 7 Nights.  It was a well deserved climbing vacation.

I've spent many seasons sport climbing in Vegas but this was my first trip dedicated to Bouldering and I was blown away by the quality, quantity, and diversity of the stone... Pretty F'ing psyched to get back soon.  My homie, Tom Moulin, who wrote THE Guidebook has been sending me videos of his new rigs and I can't wait for next season when I'm back healthy and ready to fire.

I am still in recovery mode from my surgery and will be for at least 3 more months, I've decided to pilfer my video vault for unreleased footage, so please stay tuned for more videos like this one!

A fun flash of a classic Red Rock's Line.
Mr Moran_V7 in Gateway Canyon 5 minutes from the Kraft Boulders.

and for those of you who missed it a compilation of Emily's sends:

Saturday, February 25, 2012


My DAWGS, Paul "PRob" Robinson and Daniel "DWoods" Woods, have been filming and editing diligently over the past 12 months on their personal project WELCOME TO THE HOOD.  Having seen a few excerpts from the film I am super psyched for the release and looking forward to a no bullshit bouldering video... It has been awhile.  I am also psyched to see these athletes taking media into their own hands so we can all see a perspective that is unique to only climbers of their level.
Adding the psyche, they were able to score Pretty Lights to produce the soundtrack!
Featuring notable ascents of Paul establishing V14 and Daniel's insane flash and subsequent downgrade of Entlinge V14/15, WELCOME TO THE HOOD is a bouldering flick worth paying for... PSYCHED!!!
In partnership with the NCCC, I have secured exclusive rights for a Fort Collins Premiere and DVD Copies will be available for sale at the premiere.  DWOODS has agreed host and as soon as a venue is secure we will announce the date and time!  
The scheduled release date of the film itself is April 2nd.

Welcome to the Hood Official Trailer (www.27crags.com/films) from Paul Robinson on Vimeo.

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Moon Arete. Done.

On Sunday I sent the Horsetooth test piece, Moon Arete_V9/10.  It was my third session on the climb and the ascent came down to one single hard move... Left heel, left hand pinch, right jizz rig foot, and right hand cross to a positive side pull pinch.  The move takes time to learn unless you're Zach Lerner who fired off a very rare flash after we sprayed him down...
with beta.
Brian Camp and I were psyched after the send to put time into the sit, Sitting Moon_V12. We both linked into "the move" from the full sit and I'm amped to get back on it this week!
Moon Arete is a classic and a must do!!