Friday, December 30, 2011

VIDEO: Critical Mass_V12_Ryan Silvan_Poudre Cyn, CO

My DAWG Silvan firing the very RMNPesque Critical Mass_V12 in the PoooooD.  Rumor has it Ben Scott took a shit in this cave circa 1999.

Poudre Canyon - Critical Mass (V12) - Ryan Silven from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

Thursday, December 22, 2011

VIDEO: More Nalle. More Hueco.

Terre de Sienne  - Tale Of Two Gabors _ 2nd Ascent!  - Diabolic
3 from Hueco from ZeroSkillz on Vimeo.

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

VIDEO: ADAM ONDRA - GIOIA 8C+ - 2ND ASCENT!

If Adam Ooooooondraaa is screaming, the rig is really hard...

Friday, November 4, 2011

Upcoming Comps at Miramont Lifestyle Fitness!

November 19th - Call to Register: 970-221-5000                               Youth- 9am to Noon  Adult- Noon to 3pmDecember 10th - Register at USA Climbing:  www.usaclimbing.org

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

VIDEO: And The Poudre Keeps on Giving... 2 More FAs

2 weeks after my FA of Centerfold in the 420s, Brian Camp and Collin Horvat continued the search for new lines and found two roadside gems located in the Sage area near The Bog parking.
Collin established Graveyard Machine_V8 above the Sage boulder and Brian cranked the sit start to a squat start Colin and I had done last season calling it Last Past_V9 below the Sage boulder. Both are close to the road on exceptional rock that BC likened to Brione, Switzerland quality, although BC has never actually been to Brione - at least we can dream of perfect granite...
Psyched on the New Rigs!

Untitled from chorvat on Vimeo.

Thursday, October 27, 2011

VIDEO: Hot Action In The Poudre!


Hot Action In The Poudre...
Durno - Hank's Lunge_V5
Adam Kaiser Sosa - Divergence_V9
Paul Dusatko - Centerfold_v10 First Ascent
Zach Lerner - Dump Truck_V10 Flash
Can Opener_V11

Thursday, October 20, 2011

First Ascent - Centerfold_V10 - Poudre Canyon, CO






















Sent! New rig in the Poooood... Centerfold_V10 - Psyched! 
BP name in honor of my homeboy Zach Lerner and his multiple xxx centerfold spreads in recent climbing mags. 
Located in the back of the 420's - climbs out a limestone looking mini cave at the top of the big slab facing Tilt - check it.  Starts matched on flat undercling and head left and up through crimps and sick pinch features.  Video coming soon.

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

CARTER LAKE TRAIL DAY

Thank you to all the volunteers who came out last Saturday to build trails and trim foliage. We had a fun, motivated crew.... 30% of the volunteers had never been to Carter! The Larimer County reps were very impressed with the climbers and psyched to see us putting the time in on trails used by multiple user groups.
Super Chief_V11 (post break last season)


Monday, July 18, 2011

VIDEO: The Swiss Account_Full Length!

My homies Carlo Traversi and Jon Glassberg hooked up a ton o free climbing content fo yo ass...

Louder Than 11 in association with Traversi Entertainment present "The Swiss Account". A documentary film about the lives of three American friends bouldering in Switzerland during the fall of 2010. Follow Jon Glassberg, Connor Griffith and Carlo Traversi as they climb on some of the worlds finest Granite boulder problems in Brione, Cresciano, Chironico and Magic Wood. Special guests Paul Robinson, Dai Koyamada and Adam Ondra join forces with the American team to climb over 40 boulders in the mountains of Southern Switzerland.


The Swiss Account ~ Feature Length from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

Monday, July 11, 2011

VIDEO: Ben Scott and Crew_New Rigs at Area E Mt. Evans

Ben keeps calling me a person of alternative lifestyle for not hiking 18 miles uphill in the snow to camp and climb untouched boulders... I guess it looks pretty good...

Enter the Dragon (stand) v7 from BS on Vimeo.


Eye for an Eye v9 from BS on Vimeo.


Easy Street v4 from BS on Vimeo.


Perfume Scented Lionness v5 from BS on Vimeo.

Monday, July 4, 2011

Poudre Canyon Slideshow with Ben Scott_Thursday July 7th 6:30pm @ REI

Ben Scott will be presenting a 30 minute slideshow on climbing in the Poudre Canyon.  If you missed the show at Odells in January, this is a great chance to catch it again.  A big opportunity for us and Fixed Pin to sell and promote the book at REI!

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

VIDEO: Endo Fo Sho


MS13 Training Arete_V8
Extra Alienated_V9
Cambrian Explosion_V10
Flux For Life_V13 (Third Ascent)

Jon Cardwell, Jamie Emerson, Emily Dudley, and Paul Dusatko fire a few classics from the center of the Bouldering Universe... A small talus field in Colorado.

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Endo and Wolvo! (Updated 06/13)

After returning from Hueco Guide training (psyched!) I was amped to hit the alpine last week.We attempted to climb at Endo Valley twice but it feels as though the season there is over for me unless a cold spell rolls in...  (Click on images to enlarge)
The true locals don't seem to mind we are bouldering in Endo!
Emily (who loves the warmer temps) fired Extra Alienated_V9 her first of this grade!
 I did repeat MS 13 Training Arete_V8 three times for fun.  It is one of my favorite lines up there. Bear Cam and I had spotted it a few months earlier but snow had impeded our FA attempts - I am psyched Chad Greedy scored the FA.  It is a classic.
 I also scrubbed a new crimp line left of Revanche_V5 on the West ridge above the road and the main boulders.  I called the new line One Above One_V6 as it climbs hand over hand up a crimp seam to a big move to jugs with an airy but fun mantel.  I also added a sit to Tim Daniel's Owlet_V5. This mini rig climbs the left bulging corner on the Extra Alienated boulder.
I'll be posting an Endo video I put together which includes Jon Cardwell's 3rd ascent of Flux For Life_V13.  Below are a few picts of Jamie Emerson coming close to sending Flux For Life which he considers a "hand shake" climb.  Climb it and you'll get a hand shake, cause it's proud and burly.
The iconic Ben Scott showing off his Merkin_V9...
Jon Cardwell flashing Cambrian Explosion_V10
We also checked out Jamie Emerson's and Jon Cardwell's slide show at Bent Gate in Golden then Sam Davis' slide show at Ed's Cantina in Estes later in the week.  It's always good too see accomplished and experienced climbers showing off their own media and creativity... very inspiring!
Today we hit up WOLVO for the first session of the season and it was perfect.  Perfect temps, perfect crew, and perfect projects.
Emily came close on Chalk On Rock_V8 and Kryptonite_V7/8.  She was tired so no sends but solid progress.  Kryptonite's last crux crimp is significantly larger than last season when it was first established.  Aggressive brushing or just the nature of the crumbly granite in the seam sloughing out of the hold due to traffic has increased it's size and in my opinion decreased it's difficulty.
I wasn't able to walk past Chalk On Rock this season and fired it second go.  It is a fun line and I'm adding it to my list of warm-ups.

 I had my first session on Phobos_V10/11 and really enjoyed the unique style of climbing.  I was able to do the crux first try but this being our first time at altitude for the season my linkage was limited to two overlapping sections.  I sent it during my next sesion with Herm there for mental support!
There is so much to do up there - I don't where to start...  Please stay tuned for more photos and video!

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

First Ascents in THE POUDRE! (Updated 06/01)

Lately I've been stressing about finding more first ascents and new lines of King Tut caliber.  Ben Scott assured me this one line was "just the tip of the iceberg."  I was hesitant to believe. Then Dave Graham called and toured me around a perfect granite talus field 20 minutes from downtown Estes Park with virtually no hike... Endo Valley. This was 2 months ago. Since then I've started to believe Ben more and more especially after he called and spoke of a new discovery he had made in the Poudre - 40 minutes from Fort Collins.  My hope was fully renewed for new stone and quality lines when we came around the ridge of a 30 minute hike and saw this....  The Skyline Boulders!
Click on images to enlarge



The Immaculate Ghost Train Boulder
A love note from Durno... he never made it.
Ben cleaning the super tall and unrepeated Crunchy Grooves_V7
Emily Dudley firing Prometheus Dabbing_V4


The Rapture_V4 : A beautiful bulging high ball roof established the day of THE Rapture.
Why are we still here???      uh oh
First Ascents in The Poudre! Skyline Boulders from Paul Dusatko on Vimeo.

Thursday, May 12, 2011

Friday, April 22, 2011

VIDEO: First Ascent of Log Jammin_V9

This line heads up a perfect 45 degree undeveloped wall in the South Platte area.  Refrigerator size choss blocks impede climbing from the finishing jug to the top of the cliff. Although easy climbing (V0) the full top out is too dangerous in its current state.

Log Jammin_FA_V9 from Paul Dusatko on Vimeo.

Thanks for sharing Ben!

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

VIDEO: Jason Kehl 1st Ascent of 7th Circle _ Hueco Tanks, TX

I've been struggling mentally with a new line in Red Feather - I've put 2 solid months of effort into it.  In this perfectly produced vid, Jason documents his efforts over three years of attempts!  This is the type of  media we need more of; high quality and relevant to me as a boulderer.
All of sudden 2 months doesn't feel that bad...

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/jason-kehl-climbing-first-ascent-7th-circle

Saturday, March 19, 2011

D. Woods_Warpath_V14

D Woods destroying again... No video has been released from his send but the FA by James Litz is below.  This problem went unrepeated for a few years and was speculated to be the hardest problem in the U.S.
WARPATH_V14 FA by James LItz _ CLICK HERE

Sunday, March 13, 2011

VIDEO: Carlo Traversi 2nd Ascent of The Game_V15/16

I've known Carlo for about 6 years now and he always been strong, respectful, and a great ambassador for our sport - nice work dude!

Missing Hueco...

Emily Dudley working "A Good Day For Swiss Crisp Mix_V10"
Photo: Beau Kahler

Friday, January 28, 2011

VIDEO: 2 HUECO CLASSICS...

Bloodline_V8 : Emily Dudley
The French Tickler_V9 HB : Paul Dusatko


2 Classics From Hueco_2011 from Paul Dusatko on Vimeo.

Thanks to ORGANIC, LA SPORTIVA, and Wagon Wheel Co-Opt

Sunday, January 9, 2011

TRAINING TIPS WITH DURNO!

World Class Athlete and all around good guy, Chris "Durno" Durnin has agreed to grace Fire The Rig with occasional training tips to stay fit, funny, and sending...
TRAINING TIP #1:  KEEP YOUR CORE TIGHT:
HOW?
1. Drink Beer always, especially at the crag.
2.Make sure one of your main climbing partners works at a Pizza joint so you have access to 'fit foods.'
3. Never, ever, ever, ever under any circumstance voluntarily 'do cardio.'
4. Pre-training meals should always include at least one Taco Bell Chalupa and one Coke (diet)
5. Bust out 45 sit ups and 45 push ups every three months or so.
For more tips and tricks check Durno's popular Ironman blog: www.climbhighco.com