Monday, May 17, 2010

VIDEO: DUMP TRUCK, V10_Poudre Canyon, CO

In early winter I established a link-up that Brian Camp had been scoping.  With no real efforts by BC during the FA attempts I ended up sending this "necessary contrivance" called Dump Truck on the immaculate Against Humanity boulder.  DT starts on Against Humanity Right, V8 and finishes up Crime, V9.
Here, Miramont's newest setter, Kevin Boehm scores the fourth ascent:

Dump Truck, V10_Poudre Canyon, CO from Paul Dusatko on Vimeo.

Thursday, May 13, 2010

POUDRE MINI GUIDE: King Fin Area & Critical Mass

In order to assist the efforts of Ben Scott and The NC3 to provide free online bouldering guides, I'll be adding supplemental information on Fire The Rig such as the Mini Guide below. (As a note, the grades, FA claims, and star ratings are based on consensus of the local crew currently wrestling the pebbles)
Emily Dudley fires King Fin,V4
Approximately 40 miles up the Poudre Canyon from the World Famous "Ted's Place" gas station/hooker hangout is the Big Bend Campground. (on the left if driving up canyon)
Directly across from the Big Bend Campground is the King Fin Area. A left turn sends you to Big Bend Campground, a right turn, at the seasonal mail box post, takes you to King Fin and Critical Mass. Drive on the dirt road staying to the left at any turn. The road dead ends at a cul-de-sac with both the Critical Mass and King Fin Boulders visible from the car.
View from Parking Area
King Fin Boulder

A. Fin King, V3: Start on large sloping ledge and head up the arete on edges and slopers. 
FA Jay Shambo / Herm Feissner
B. Scrimps, V3: Bust three moves to the arete off a crimpy stand start. FA Jay Shambo / Herm Feissner
C. Face Down Ass Up, V8*: Start sitting in the Hanta Virus cave and traverse right into the far left side of King Fin then head left onto the main head wall via a sharp RH crimp and LH pinch. Dyno to the sloping but good lip hold. Mantel out.  FA Paul Dusatko
D. Gastoner, V7*: Same start as "C" then bust straight up where "C" heads back left. Top out just left of King Fin.  FA Aaron Edwards
E. Ridin' Spinnaz, V5*: Same Start as "C" and finish up King Fin.  FA Beau Kahler
F. Hank's Rig, V6*: Start as "G" finish up "C" FA Hank Jones circa 1999
G. King Fin, V4***: Climb the right arete up quality stone and unique holds. Classic. FA Jay Shambo
Critical Mass Boulder
Critical Mass, V12**: Sit start at the far end of the cave. Bust out technical moves via crimps, slopes, toe hooks, and mad body tension. RMNPesque climbing.  FA Andre DiFelice / Brian Camp
(Note: Jon Glassberg climbed a left exit with beta he called "beta for giants" - still waiting grade consensus)